10 Great Things to Do in Scotland and why we loved our month-long vacation!

I should start by saying that Teresa and I were not planning to visit Scotland this summer. With summers in southern Ontario relatively short, we like to stay home, enjoy our pool, go to our cottage, golf at Bay of Quinte GC and spend time with friends and family. Beyond that, although Scotland was probably on our travel list, it was down near the bottom. The top of my post-pandemic travel list was Australia, as well as return trips to Hawaii and southern California to visit family.

I was shocked when I received an email from The Open, Ticket Ballot Results: "You're invited to The 150th Open at St. Andrews". I didn't even remember entering the ballot. However, reflecting on it, in 2021 when updating The Open app, I did remember a message that said "due to the expected demand for tickets for The 150th Open at St. Andrews the R&A will conduct a draw". I remember clicking to enter and then promptly forgetting about it. That is until October 2021 when I received the email. After determining that it was not a scam Teresa and I began to consider if this was something we wanted to do. There wasn't a lot of time as you had to decide to buy the tickets within nine days or forfeit the opportunity. It became obvious very quickly that even as early as October 2021, available accommodation for the event in July 2022 was very limited and very expensive. I was able to find a room in a very (read very very) standard hotel room in Dundee. It appeared from Google that Dundee was approximately a 30-minute drive from St. Andrews and there was a regular bus service (we did not want to rent a car). I also found articles that indicated more frequent bus service would be on during The Open. I contacted our friends Paul and Fiona, who own a property in Scotland and are regular visitors, to get their view of Dundee. They confirmed it would work and offered to help with our vacation planning. Teresa and I then made two decisions. First, we decided to buy the tickets. If we didn't take this opportunity, we would have been watching the Open on television in 2022 thinking, we could have been there! Second, if we were going to go to Scotland for the golf event we should turn it into a full-on vacation and try and see as much of the country as possible. And that is how our month-long vacation to Scotland was born.

What follows are ten things we loved during our stay in Scotland. There were many more than ten things. You will notice in some cases I cheated and included additional items under the heading (it is my blog so I can do what I want!). At the end, I have tried to list most of the resources I used to plan the trip and give you an idea of the process I went through in choosing the places to go and the things to do. Here goes:

1. - The 150th Open at St. Andrews - Attending the 150th Open at St. Andrews was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. When I describe attending the Masters at Augusta G&CC I always say that even if you are not an avid golfer or follower of professional golf you will still enjoy attending the event. For a golfer, being at the Masters borders on a spiritual experience. I felt the same this summer at St. Andrews. To be at the home of golf during the sesquicentennial (I had to Google to figure out what 150 was) anniversary and watch The Open was heavenly. It felt like the players also knew this was a special occasion, and every fan we met felt like us - lucky to be enjoying this unique experience. We walked the complete course at least three times, sat in multiple grandstands, and saw Tiger and other top players on Thursday and Friday before the cut. At some point on Saturday, we saw every player who made the cut. From our favourite grandstand, where you can see multiple shots on multiple holes we saw every player in contention on Sunday. We bought far too many souvenirs (we love them all) and were able to ship them home from the onsite UPS store so we didn't have to lug them around with us for the rest of the vacation (bonus!). Generally, the weather was great but there were a few hours of wind and rain just so we knew we were in Scotland. We drank Scottish beer (the lineups for beer were shorter than getting a beer at the Rogers Centre as were the lineups for the washrooms). We soaked up the experience for four days.

Dundee was the perfect place to commute to The Open. Although our hotel was very basic and at eight times the standard rate - a ripoff, it worked out perfectly. Dundee as a city was disappointing. There was no indication that less than 30 minutes away, a world-class event was taking place. We would often get off the bus in the evening and had difficulty finding a place open for dinner. I felt they could have done so much more to market the city, pubs and restaurants. Having said all that, it worked fine for us. Taking the bus from Dundee to St Andrews was the way to go, as we were dropped off right at the entrance to The Open. Taking the train was unpredictable because of rotating strikes and driving would have led to delays in traffic jams and long, slow shuttle rides from the parking lots.

Unfortunately, this is the only one of my 10 great things to do that you can no longer do. The 150th Open can only happen once and we feel incredibly fortunate to have attended. You could however go to a subsequent Open. I am sure it would be a fun experience and a great reason to vacation in Scotland.

Just a few of the photos from The Open. Even watching Xander on the practice green and Roy on the range was exciting. One of the great things about following a Canadian is you can get really close. We were right on the tee with Cory Connors.

2. - Watchmesee - This is a blog site that I discovered early in my research while planning our vacation. Finding this site and working with the owner dramatically impacted and improved our vacation experience. watchmesee.com and the complimentary Facebook page Wild for Scotland: Trip Planning Made Easy is hosted by Kathi Kamleitner an Austrian who relocated to Scotland and subsequently started her own travel business. In addition to the blog and Facebook site, she offers a variety of travel services, including itinerary planning and itinerary reviews. I like to think of myself as a travel planner. I enjoy researching and finding places and things that end up making our vacations special. I had outlined our trip by the time I found watchmesee.com. so rather than purchasing Kathi's full itinerary planning service we did an itinerary review. It was the best CAD 250 we spent (157 GBP). Before scheduling a 1 on 1 Zoom call with Kathi, about an hour in length, you send her your itinerary. She reviews your plans and then makes recommendations to improve them. She asks questions in advance to understand the kind of travel you like, what is important to you and the types of things you enjoy. She also sends a ton of information and details specific to your venture. Kathi recommended a couple of changes to our plans that turned out to greatly improve our vacation. In addition to the huge volume of valuable material she provides, her blog site and Facebook page have lots of advice to enhance any trip. I highly recommend using Kathi's blog site and Facebook page as part of your Scotland vacation planning. I would also say that purchasing one or more of her travel services will lead to a much-improved experience.

3. - Liverpool - Yes I know Liverpool is not in Scotland (reminder this is my blog). Liverpool was however part of our Scottish vacation so it made the list. Teresa and I had wanted to visit Liverpool to do all things Beatles. Although not super convenient, Liverpool is a 5 hour, three-train ride from Edinburgh, it was worth it. In the day and a half we stayed in Liverpool we discovered a beautiful, modern, diverse city that is so much more than "just" the Beatles. We did however max out our Beatles experience by visiting the Beatles Story Museum and although Teresa and I are not bus tour people, we thoroughly enjoyed the Beatles Bus tour. It was the only way to see Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields and other famous Beatles sites if you don't have a car. We also visited the British Music Experience museum (awesome) and did a boat tour on the Mersey river - the inspiration behind Ferry Cross the Mersey by Gerry and Pacemakers (how could we miss that!).

In Liverpool, we also got to discover pubs off the beaten path (see how I was able to add another great thing to my list of 10). Roscoe Pub was recommended in one of Kathi's blog posts. While we were there enjoying a beer on a very, very hot day (it was 40 degrees) we met a local who asked how we found the place given it was not a tourist destination. He then proceeded to tell us his 5 favourite local pubs. Teresa and I love lists and made it to all 5. We also ate at Mogowli, Leaf on Bold Street and Maggie Fu's, all delicious. We stayed at the Hard Days Night hotel, the "official" Beatles hotel in Liverpool. It is beautiful, and at every turn, including in your room, there are great photos and artifacts of the Beatles.

We loved Liverpool.

Go to Liverpool for everything Beatles! Stay at the Hard Days Night hotel, visit The Beatles Story Museum, and take a ferry and bus tour. So much fun, great city!

4. - North Coast 500 (NC500) - It is unfair to have the NC500 as only one of the 10 great things to do in Scotland. The NC500 is just over 500 miles (516 to be exact) of stunning coastal scenery, white sandy beaches (and rocky ones), rugged mountains, remote fishing villages, and hidden gems. The drive provided some of the most memorable experiences of our trip. An important part of this "things to do in Scotland" was the rental of a campervan (slipped another great thing in!). We spent 12 of the 30 days exploring Scotland in an RV and enjoyed every minute. There are lots of ways to drive the NC500 but I think renting a campervan is the way to go. It is not without its challenges. Driving on the "wrong" side of the road while shifting the gears of the manual transmission can be a harrowing experience. And that is when you are on a regular street or highway. When you get onto the NC500 with its narrow, steep, sharp turning, cliff-hugging single-track roads you begin to understand the true meaning of harrowing. For those of you that don't know, single-track roads are one-lane roads. Yes, that means one lane for traffic, in both directions. It works pretty well in wide open areas where you can see traffic coming and utilize one of the many passing areas. But on steep, sharp turns, you can get stuck head-on with a vehicle you did not see coming. This can lead to treacherous reversing (just to be clear I find backing into my driveway scary) on the edge of cliffs to allow oncoming traffic to get by. Having said all that, the campervan was great. The campsites we stayed at were beautiful and the RV allowed a level of flexibility that a car cannot match.

During our NC500 adventure, we stayed at Killin, Isle of Skye, Ullapool, Durness, John O'Groats and Inverness. We stayed 2 nights at most of the stops, 3 on the Isle of Skye. We decided we would enjoy a dram of scotch (another great thing on our trip to Scotland) every night of the NC500 tour. Our scotch of choice was from the Ben Nevis distillery, which we savoured throughout our journey.

The NC500 causes what I like to call, scenery overload. There are so many beautiful parts of the countryside that you want to stop every few hundred yards. At some point, you realize if you keep stopping you will never get to your destination. You also realize that the breathtaking scenery doesn't end and there will always be more to see.

Driving the NC500 would make a great Scottish vacation. You would return home feeling like you experienced an amazing time away. Include this on your Scottish trip and be adventurous - rent that campervan!

Our home for 12 nights. Travelling in a campervan is fun, flexible and a great way to travel the NC500. Take a bottle of Scotch with you and have a drink (after you are finished driving)

5. - Harry Potter Viaduct - I would not describe myself as a huge Harry Potter fan. I have not read any of the books and have only watched the movies when our kids watched them. I would say however, this is a must-see when visiting Scotland. Although you can visit this site without seeing the train as the viaduct itself is spectacular (looks just like in the movie), watching the train puff its smoke along the tracks makes it that much more special (now it really looks like the movie). The train passes over the viaduct twice a day so be sure to check the schedule. Get there early as parking is at a premium. This also allows you time to hike out to the viaduct, take lots of photos without the train and get a good, unobstructed viewing/photo spot for when the train comes. If you are a big Harry Potter fan you can even dress up, but fan or not, don't miss this.

Harry Potter fan or not a stop at the Glenfinnan Viaduct is a must

6. Campsites on the NC500 - One of the best things about renting a campervan in Scotland was the campsites. It seemed that in most of the places we stopped, the sites were located in the most beautiful spot in the area. Although we enjoyed all the places we stopped at (ok we did not enjoy Bunchew Caravan Park in Inverness. It was a total mess in terms of the parking sites, dirty and badly managed) we particularly enjoyed these three. Ardmair Point Holiday Park in Ullapool where we were backed right up to the water. Sango Sands in Durness where we camped on the edge of a cliff overlooking a beautiful sandy beach. John O'Groats Caravan and Camping site in John O'Groats is at the most northern point on mainland Scotland (there are islands further north). Our campsite was on a point where you could see the ocean all around.

All these trailer parks were clean and well-managed. Although significantly different than North America where you can book an RV site that includes water, electricity and sewage, Scottish sites only include electricity. This is not a problem but does mean that you have to plan your water and sewage either before or after you visit the campsite.

All the sites allowed us easy access to the hiking trails and sights we wanted to visit. We met some great people while camping and I would say again, driving a campervan is a fun way to see the NC500.

Backed up to the water at Ardmair Point Holiday Park in Ullapool. Backed up to the cliff overlooking a beautiful sandy beach in Durness at Sango Sands campsite. Incredible sunset at John O'Groats. The Campsites always seem to be in the most beautiful spots

7. Coasteering - There is probably some debate about putting this on the list of 10 great things to do in Scotland. I am not sure it would be on Teresa's list. For those of you that don't know, coasteering is an adventure experience. You get suited up in a very (read very very) tight wet suit, thermal socks and old running shoes, a life jacket and a helmet. Your adventure begins by hiking over large, jagged rocks (that is what the old running shoes are for). You then enter the ocean and swim to the base of cliffs (this is what the wet suit is for; the water is freezing). After hiking to the top of the cliffs, you jump off into the ocean. There are three cliffs, each one higher than the one before. Not sure the helmet is enough protection if something bad happens here. Doesn't that sound like fun? (remember we are paying money to do this).

Teresa and I like to include different experiences in our vacations. When I found this activity in one of Kathi's blog posts I researched further at Skye Adventure, an outdoor adventure company on the Isle of Skye. Swimming turned out to be the most challenging part of coasteering. As I said, the wet suit is very tight and highly constrictive - to the point where it feels difficult to breathe. In addition, the combination of the life jacket, helmet and ocean waves makes swimming almost impossible. Teresa, who is a stronger swimmer than I am found it very uncomfortable and that eventually impacted her overall enjoyment of the experience (that is code for she didn't enjoy it). It did lead however to one of her best lines of the whole vacation. After posting photos of our coasteering experience on Facebook, (Teresa has an underwater camera that took amazing pics) we received many comments, most of which expressed disbelief that we had done this. Teresa responded "yes it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Meaning I am never doing this again!" The most treacherous part of cliff jumping is ensuring you don't slip (the cliff rocks are wet and greasy), before ensuring you jump far enough out from the cliff, to ensure you don't bounce off the cliff on the way down.

So to summarize. You wear uncomfortable and constrictive equipment, hike over jagged rocks and swim (or try to) in cold, dark, wavy water, then jump off cliffs, without hitting the sides on the way down to the sea.

Definitely fun and I recommend you try it!

Coasteering on the Isle of Skye .... fun ... wow!

8. - Hiking - Many people when they heard we were visiting Scotland asked if we were going to golf while there. Teresa and I decided that attending The Open would be our golf experience on this vacation. We have hiked all over the world-Alberta, BC, Newfoundland, California, Hawaii, West Virginia, Arizona, China, Japan, New Zealand, Vietnam, and Cambodia to name a few. Without a doubt, the hiking we did in Scotland was some of the most amazing anywhere. The diversity of terrain was stunning, as were the views - truly breathtaking. I love golf but I am glad we chose hiking as our main activity while on the NC500. I listed most of the hikes we completed at the bottom of this article. Like most places, there is a range of hikes from easy to difficult. Something for everyone.

We have so many amazing photos from our hikes. Although it would be great to golf in Scotland we were so glad we chose hiking as one of our main activities.

9. Glasgow Airbnb - Airbnb or sometimes VRBO is our preferred accommodation. We were staying in Airbnb-like places before Airbnb was even a thing. Travelling with 5 children at a standard hotel just did not cut it for us. We needed more space. Even though most of our travel now is just the two of us, we still prefer Airbnb. Having a place with a sitting area and a kitchen as well as a bedroom and washroom is something we appreciate. We can have coffee and breakfast at our own pace in the morning, relax comfortably and have a beer after a long day of sightseeing, and when we get tired of restaurant food, the kitchen allows us to eat in. We have stayed at various Airbnbs all over the world, but the one in Glasgow may have been the nicest ever. It was in a great location and beautifully decorated. The most interesting aspect of the unit was that the owners went out of their way (sometimes far out of their way) to ensure their place and the contents were as green/environmentally friendly as possible. It was an incredible place. We would definitely stay again when visiting Glasgow. You can find the information for the accommodation here - https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/40486576?source_impression_id=p3_1668956232_IllOMhLu5jDgIZgh (you may have to copy and paste the link to get to the Airbnb page)

10. - Edinburgh and the Fringe Festival - When Teresa and I went to Japan and visited Kyoto, we found that people there love their city. They believe it to be the most beautiful city in Japan and maybe in all of Asia. Some even believe that the Emperor of Japan should move back permanently, making Kyoto the capital of Japan again (Kyoto was the capital of Japan for over 1,000 years, from 794 to 1868). While in Edinburgh I had the same feeling. People who live in Edinburgh love their city, they are proud of their city and believe it is the most beautiful place in the United Kingdom, maybe in all of Europe. Edinburgh is a beautiful city and would be amazing to visit anytime. The Fringe festival just adds to the experience.

Visiting Edinburgh during the Fringe festival is a bit of a shock after driving the NC500. While hiking, sometimes for 3-4 hours, we would see a few people, and sometimes no one. When we arrived in Edinburgh it was shoulder-to-shoulder people, a sea of humanity. Teresa and I don't mind crowds and enjoy the excitement of city life. But be ready. If you don't enjoy that kind of atmosphere it might be better to visit Edinburgh at a non-peak time.

Edinburgh has everything. Excellent restaurants (every kind of food), pubs, bars, scotch tasting and distilleries. Castles, history, shopping and people-watching. The Fringe has hundreds (literally hundreds) of shows ranging from free, to pay-what-you-can, to expensive ticketed mainline events.

Rather than go on about how much fun Edinburgh is just plan to visit. You will love it.

11. - Bonus Great Thing to do - Single Track Roads - You probably are not going to find this on any other top 10 list of Scotland. Teresa and I like to do different things while on vacation that we can laugh about and tell our family and friends when we return home. Single-track roads make the list. Although harrowing at times and combined with the standard transmission it was impossible ever to relax while driving. It was a huge part of our experience in Scotland. Teresa will never forget how close I kept driving to the left-hand curb after picking up the campervan. And there were more than a few times we wondered if we would even make it through the road we had picked to drive on. But we are living proof that it can be done and that you can even look back at it fondly after the fact.

Honourable mention - Isle of Skye - beautiful and the bridge makes it much easier to get to than other islands in Scotland. Glasgow - definitely has an inferiority complex when it comes to Edinburgh but a great city in its own right. Fish and chips - how many times can you have fish and chips on one vacation? A lot and delicious every time. Pubs - we enjoy pubs wherever we are. In Scotland - amazing! Restaurants - particularly in Glasgow and Edinburgh. History, castles, cathedrals, churches, necropolis - Scotland doesn't take a backseat to any place in Europe when it comes to history. Lots to see and enjoy. Loch Ness - is one of the most famous spots in Scotland. The lake (loch) is beautiful and definitely worth visiting. We found some good hiking too. The rest of the Loch Ness area is pretty touristy so did not make our top 10. Easy to travel and you can speak with locals - except for driving on the left-hand side of the road, Scotland is an easy place to travel with a great system of trains, buses and public transit. In addition, unlike many places in Europe and Asia, everyone speaks English. You can discover more about the places you are visiting by talking to locals. Weather - Better than you think. We had great weather and largely the summers are nice. Cool in the very north (kind of like Canada!). Probably don't want to be hiking off the NC500 in November but the summer is great.

I will finish by saying I think Scotland is one of the most underrated travel destinations. As you can tell from my list above, Scotland has everything you could want on a vacation and more. I don't know why it is not on more people's vacation lists (and not just for golf). Yes, the season is shorter than say Italy but I think Scotland is a wonderful place to visit.

Resources and ideas - hopefully, you find something here that will help you plan your trip to Scotland if you decide to go (hint - you should go!).

Initial planning - I always start my planning by establishing how long we want to visit. For this vacation, we knew we would be attending the golf from Thursday to Sunday and be in Liverpool for a day and a half. We slotted 4 days for Glasgow and 5 days for Edinburgh, ensuring we would be there for the Fringe festival. We planned 2 weeks to drive the NC500. This meant we would leave Toronto Tuesday, July 12 and return on August 9. Exactly 4 weeks.

Flights - Given we live just outside Toronto we tend to fly almost exclusively on Air Canada. They have direct flights to most destinations. That combined with my Air Canada Million Mile membership which gives me many benefits, we quickly landed on direct flights to and from Edinburgh.

Accommodations

• Liverpool - Hard Days Night Hotel - https://www.harddaysnighthotel.com/?cid=gplaces-hard-days-night-liverpool. Definitely, the place to stay while in Liverpool. Beautiful, affordable hotel with great service (they accommodated our early check-in request)

• BunkCampers - https://www.bunkcampers.com/. For the campervan, we looked at size, features, and cost including unlimited mileage. After my extensive research, this place looked the best. The customer service team was responsive and helpful in answering questions pre-booking. We planned on taking a cab from Edinburgh airport to BunkCampers but our train from Liverpool to the airport stopped in Preston because of the heat (?). We made it to their depot after closing time but thankfully they waited for us. They were extremely pleasant and thorough and did not rush. Great service!

• Glasgow Airbnb - https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/40486576?source_impression_id=p3_1668956232_IllOMhLu5jDgIZgh (you may have to copy and paste the link to get to the Airbnb page.) Nicest Airbnb we have ever stayed in. Great location but most important a real focus on green/environmental standards.

• Edinburgh Airbnb - https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/37144928?source_impression_id=p3_1668956661_DecmQHBbzAa0sKxi (you may have to copy and paste the link to get to t he Airbnb page) Great location on Rose street near Princess Street. A little deserted walking home a couple of nights and a little creepy one night when all the stairway lights were out (had to walk up three flights of stairs). Also, some tenants left stuff in the stairway (bicycle wheels?), but the inside of our unit was nice and the location was great.

Key Planning site - www.watchmesee.com and the complementary Facebook page - Wild for Scotland: Trip Planning Made Easy. I would use these two resources as your main planning sites for any trip to Scotland. I would also highly recommend Kathi's itinerary review service.

Other planning sites

• it is relatively easy to use Google to find almost anything you are looking for. Restaurants, hiking, things to do, accommodations etc. I find after you have looked at a few sites, look for ones that are written by bloggers/reviews versus city marketing people. You will find some of the same things/places popping up. Those are the ones I begin to focus on and investigate more.

Restaurants - these are places we ate at

• Dundee

  • St. Andrews Brewing Company - We had a beer and snacks here in Dundee - https://www.standrewsbrewingcompany.com/

  • Mazaj Arabic Charcoal Grill Restaurant - Our best dinner in Dundee - https://www.facebook.com/mazajdundee/

  • The Barrelman - We ended up here when our first choice was not serving food at 7:00 pm (?). Good pub food - https://thebarrelman.co.uk/

  • Porters Bar - Our first meal in Dundee. Good pub food and they served us even though they were closed between lunch and dinner - https://www.portersbar-restaurant.com/

• Liverpool

  • Roscoe Pub - If you are looking for a quirky, non-touristy, off-the-beaten-path pub this is it - https://www.roscoehead.co.uk/

  • Mowgli - Great Indian food and very good service. Lauren and Ash went to the location in Glasgow and also enjoyed it - https://www.mowglistreetfood.com/

  • Maggie Fu's - At some point on our vacations, we have to eat somewhere where we can get plain steamed white rice. This was it along with great Chinese food - https://maggiefu.co.uk/

  • Leaf on Bold Street - We don't eat out for breakfast often so when we do we want it to be good. This place was great - https://www.thisisleaf.co.uk/

• Isle of Skye - Isle of Skye is incredibly busy and even though I do a lot of advance planning I found it very difficult to find availability in restaurants. Because we were hiking we did not want to commit to restaurant reservations too far in advance. This meant that places were often booked or very busy. Most places offer takeout and grocery stores have a lot of ready-made options. This is another area where the campervan is great. We could buy food and enjoy it at our campsite.

• Ullapool

  • Seafood Shack - We got takeaway here for two nights we were in Ullapool. Delicious food and great selection - https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/

  • JoJo Cafe - In addition to having ice cream in the afternoon, we got pies and pastries for dinner and breakfast, delicious - https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100076927568131&eav=AfZbM3xeVWhe0cA10RY7CXwO-9WO9OaozJzR2YOOmDMsKhogWKv_XHOIyLvbWF5NPz0&paipv=0&_rdr

• Durness

  • Meet and Eat Cafe - Eating options are very (read very very) limited in Durness. We walked to this place from the campsite. It was further than described but walkable. We had a late lunch and the food was delicious. Great soups, vegetarian options, and amazing baked goods which we purchased for the next day's breakfast - https://www.facebook.com/meetandeatdurness/. The restaurant is located in Balnakeil Craft Village - balnakeilcraftvillage.weebly.com. It is a cute spot with craft-type stores and a few restaurants.

• John O'Groats - Another location where the dining options are limited. Again the campervan allowed us the flexibility to shop for groceries and make dinner or get takeaway and eat at our campsite

  • Fish and Chips - There was a food truck just outside the campsite that served a few things. We went for fish and chips, delicious

  • Stacks Bistro - https://www.stacksbistro.co.uk/ - Located in the small tourist village next to the campsite this place was spectacular. Scones and pastries breakfast. Sausage rolls and sandwiches for takeaway. We went here a few times (including food for our hike). Definitely worth visiting.

• Inverness - Inverness is a larger city, not like the small towns above on the NC500. It seemed like an interesting place and likely has several good restaurants, bars etc. However, our campsite was outside Inverness which meant we had to drive into the city. Unfortunately, parking was a nightmare and would have been difficult in a car; in a campervan, it was too problematic. With great difficulty, we found a parking spot the first night, but after that decided to eat in the RV.

  • The Allangrange - https://www.theallangrange.co.uk/ - This is a quaint, cool (do those two words go together?) small pub outside Inverness (parking was not a problem). The food was delicious the portions huge. We went after visiting Black Isle Brewery

  • Black Isle Brewery - https://www.blackislebrewery.com/ - no food but worth visiting for a beer tasting. It is isolated, with a long rough driveway that gets even rougher as get closer to the brewery. A small place with no formal tasting times. You just show up, they crack open a few beers, they describe them, and you drink them. Our kind of place. Bought (too many) beers to take with us and t-shirts. Fun place

  • Mangrove - https://mangroveinverness.co.uk/ - this was the one restaurant we went to after we survived parking the campervan. The good news is the food was delicious.

• Glasgow - As I mentioned Glasgow has an inferiority complex because of its proximity to Edinburgh and all of the accolades Edinburgh gets for, well almost everything. Having said that, we really enjoyed Glasgow. As mentioned, the Airbnb was by far the best. There are many things to do, and after the NC500, where the dining options were often very limited, Glasgow had lots of choices.

  • Chinaskis - https://chinaskis.co.uk/ - Clearly a local hang-out, not a tourist spot. This place was near our Airbnb. Funky atmosphere, a fun menu and great food. Recommend for sure.

  • Mother India's Cafe - https://www.motherindia.co.uk/restaurant/mother-indias-cafe/ - This is the sister restaurant to Mother India's Restaurant. This place is a little less formal and since we were going for lunch was perfect. As you probably know Indian food is big in the UK. We had it a few times, and every time delicious. This was no exception.

  • Drygate Brewery - https://www.drygate.com/ - I found this place in my Glasgow research and although they do have food (it looked good) we just dropped in for a beer after wandering around the Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis. Great beer, and a cool atmosphere.

  • Sloans Pub https://www.sloansglasgow.com/ - Sloans is apparently Glasgow's oldest Pub and restaurant. Good news, it has been renovated (smile). Although it looks like a shopping mall was built around it, the food was great. Teresa and I split the Haggis and Tattie croquette our only time trying haggis. We got off easy given it was mostly potato so it was easy to eat (which I am guessing plain haggis would not be). Delicious food, definitely worth visiting.

  • The Pot Still - https://thepotstill.co.uk/ - As it turned out, Teresa's brother Richard, our niece Erin and her husband Johnathan were in Scotland at the same time we were. Unfortunately, we were never in the same place so did not meet up. Johnathan recommended this place after seeing my Facebook post about Glasglow. Teresa and I wandered over after dinner one night. It was pretty intimidating going in. The place was packed and it was not clear how to order etc. They serve 800 different whiskeys and it is easy to feel like an amateur (which I am). We made our way up to the bar and the woman behind the bar asked if she could help us. We obviously needed help. She smiled and was very friendly. She recommended we try a couple of their featured monthly pours and explained that those are always good value and relatively easy to drink. This was perfect for us and I appreciated how helpful she was. In no way did she make us feel like we did not belong, in fact, the opposite. The good news is I learned virtually every bar we went into had a featured monthly scotch pours. From then on I could order this featured drink and sound like I knew what I was doing (almost).

  • Hanoi Bike Shop - https://www.hanoibikeshop.co.uk/ - After visiting Vietnam Teresa and I fell in love with Vietnamese food. We were looking forward to visiting this place and it did not disappoint. Lots of locals hanging out, and lots of vegetarian (and meat) choices. Amazing flavours, great food.

  • The Hug and Pint - https://www.thehugandpint.com/ - Teresa and I have changed our diet at home and definitely eat less meat and frequently enjoy vegetarian dishes. We now enjoy finding great vegetarian/vegan places when we are travelling. The Hug and Pint is not a tourist spot. Lots of locals hanging out, and there is a live music venue in the basement. We loved the food, the great flavours and the delicious things to share.

• Edinburgh - Edinburgh is a foodie's dream. There are upscale, expensive first-class dining rooms, pubs, take-out spots and great diversity of flavours and places. Edinburgh has limitless dining. Our Airbnb host in Edinburgh sent the most thorough, complete and detailed message prior to our arrival. She outlined all her favourite restaurants, places to see and things to do. For most of the trip, we spontaneously chose restaurants, sometimes making reservations the same day or one day in advance. Here, with the Fringe Festival underway, we decided to reserve a few of the host's top recommendations. It turned out to be a good idea, as places were busy and many required reservations.

  • Dishroom - https://www.dishoom.com/edinburgh/ - Another great Indian food experience. This was probably the most beautiful dining room we ate in. A bustling place we took a reservation at 5:30 as it was the only time we could get. So glad we did. Great food, service and atmosphere. I would say a must-visit place while in Edinburgh.

  • Baba - https://baba.restaurant/ - Teresa makes a delicious Moroccan chicken dish at home but we don't eat in many Moroccan restaurants. This one is in a hotel which for me is usually a bad sign. Ignore that. This place has excellent service, a beautiful dining room and delicious food.

  • Urban Angel - https://www.urban-angel.co.uk/ - Again, we don't eat out for breakfast a lot but when we do we try and find great spots. This is a great spot! Brioche French toast with banana and caramel sauce. Is that even breakfast? The good news we went for a strenuous hike after to burn off the calories.

  • Fishers in the City - https://www.fishersrestaurants.co.uk/fishers-in-the-city/ - I was looking to have Scottish salmon and saw that this place recommended by the Airbnb host had it on the menu. A farm-to-table restaurant, the food was delicious, service was very good.

  • Dusit Thai Restaurant - https://www.dusit.co.uk/ - another great restaurant in Edinburgh. We love Thai food and this place does not disappoint.

Things to do

• Dundee / St. Andrews

  • The Open - https://www.theopen.com/ - The first thing we did and the reason for our trip. Totally awesome. In 2023 The Open is at Royal Liverpool. Although not the 150th playing of The Open and not in St. Andrews I am sure it will be fun

• Liverpool

  • The Beatles Story - https://www.beatlesstory.com/ - if your reason for visiting Liverpool is all things Beatles (how can it not be), this is a must.

  • Mersey Ferry - https://www.merseyferries.co.uk/ - Take the shortest ferry ride (55 minutes) which is more than enough, play Gerry and the Pacemakers off your phone on the ride. Even for non-boat tour people, you will have fun.

  • Bold Street - https://www.visitliverpool.com/information/product-catch-all/bold-street-p16794 - fun to walk down this main drag in Liverpool. Lots of restaurants, pubs and shopping.

  • British Music Experience - https://www.britishmusicexperience.com/ - more than just the Beatles, British music is awesome and this museum gives you the total view.

  • News From Nowhere Radical and Community Bookshop - http://www.newsfromnowhere.org.uk/ - looking for different stuff to buy a difficult person on your souvenir buying list. This is the place for you.

  • Beatles Bus Tour - https://beatlescityexplorer.co.uk/ - assuming you don't rent a car while in Liverpool (I would strongly recommend not renting a car) then this allows you to see the sights that are not in walking distance. Our tour guide was awesome and the tour was entertaining.

• NC500

  • Ben Nevis Distillery - https://www.bennevisdistillery.com/ - We did not go on the tour but did the tasting and bought a bottle of Scotch for our nightly drink. Beautiful building, with friendly people and great scotch. What more could you ask for?

  • Glenfinnan Viaduct (the Harry Potter bridge and train) - https://www.visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/glenfinnan-p236571 - Even if you are not a huge Harry Potter fan you will love this. Make sure you go during one of the two times the train crosses the viaduct to get the full experience. Parking is limited and crammed so go early, take your time hiking out to the viaduct and be sure to get a good, unobstructed spot to view and take photos of the train. Awesome!

  • Coasteering - https://www.skyeadventure.com/water-activities/coasteering - Definitely an adventure and not for everyone. Be ready for a challenging and unique experience (see description of 10 great things). Go for it!

  • Ardvreck Castle - https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/lochinver/ardvreckcastle/index.html - Castle ruins which means no castle to walk through but definitely a beautiful spot and well worth the stop as you drive the NC500.

  • Keiss Castle - https://hiddenscotland.co/listings/keiss-castle/ - Another castle ruins on the edge of the ocean. Beautiful views from the ruins and the hike up. You also hike amongst the sheep which is fun. Google maps kept sending us down a private road (the new Keiss Castle I think) so it is tricky to find. We had to drive past the castle, down by the water, park and hike back. Ask a local they will help.

  • Dunrobin Castle - http://www.dunrobincastle.co.uk/ - Given that, to this point, we had only seen castle ruins we decided to stop at Dunrobin Castle where we could explore inside. It was a great choice. The combination of exploring the inside of the castle, a small museum situated on the grounds, wandering through the beautiful gardens (which included a croquet pitch much nicer than our cottage front lawn) and as a bonus a falcon show was worth the admission charge.

• Glasgow - as I mentioned, everyone goes on about the beauty of Edinburgh while Glasgow gets left behind. But I think you would regret not visiting Glasgow on any trip to Scotland.

  • Glasgow City Mural Trail - https://www.citycentremuraltrail.co.uk/ - Teresa and I love street art/graffiti and often look for it when we are visiting a city. The combination of street art and a list of murals to look for was perfect for us. The project consists of 26 works of art all over the city. We largely looked for the artwork while exploring other sights in the city. Although we didn't find all 26, the ones we saw were interesting and beautiful. As a bonus, we discovered several pieces that we were not on the list but were equally superb. A fun activity while you are sightseeing in Glasgow and it is free!

  • Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum - https://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/venues/kelvingrove-art-gallery-and-museum - This was my least favourite museum of the ones we visited while in Glasgow and Edinburgh. I found it a very "traditional" museum with dull displays of old artifacts with not much explanation of the historical context. No interactive or more modern, interesting displays. The most interesting part of the visit here was the actual building structure which was spectacular. I should mention that Teresa enjoyed the museum so maybe it is just me (that is what she would say). Most museums in Scotland are free so even if you don't enjoy them, it hasn't cost you any money.

  • Glasgow Botanical Gardens - https://glasgowbotanicgardens.co.uk/ - We visited this right after the Kelvingrove Museum - they are within walking distance of each other. This in my view was a big step up in terms of interest. We enjoyed walking through the outside gardens and the greenhouses, in particular, were fascinating with a huge amount of different plants and flowers on display. I would definitely stop by (also free).

  • Glasgow West End - https://peoplemakeglasgow.com/neighbourhoods/west-end - A trendy, quirky area of the city that is fun to wander around. A collection of cool restaurants, shops and alleyways. Hanoi Bike Shop where we had dinner is in this area. One note, shops close early 5:00 - 6:00 pm so manage your time accordingly.

  • Glasgow Cathedral - https://www.glasgowcathedral.org/ - Even if you are not into churches or religion this is a must-stop. A massive structure that is fun to explore and spectacular with its ornate interior (and exterior). Don't miss it. Also free.

  • Glasgow Necropolis - https://www.glasgownecropolis.org/ - What is the difference between a cemetery and a necropolis? A necropolis is a designated site that has huge structures to remember the dead. Think of the pyramids in Egypt but in Scotland. Fascinating to wander around and read inscriptions on massive concrete structures. Free and close to Drygate Brewery so when you are done wandering around the necropolis you can go for a delicious beer.

  • Glasgow Subway - https://www.glasgownecropolis.org/ - the Glasgow subway is the third oldest subway in the world (it feels old when you are on it). While limited in its coverage (it is essentially two loops one inside the other travelling in opposite directions) I would highly recommend taking a ride.

  • Riverside Museum - https://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/venues/riverside-museum Absolutely my favourite museum that we visited in Scotland and one of my favourites anywhere we have been. I don't very often describe museums as fun and quirky but this one fits the bill. It is described as a transportation museum and has a huge display of old and new transportation. It also has music and travel displays. Exhibits are fun and interesting to view. We found an adding machine that is the same as one Teresa's father had (our son Patrick an accountant has it now). The only slightly depressing exhibit was a bicycle with V handlebars and a banana seat which I rode as a child. When things you owned start showing up in museums you know you are getting old (smile). Behind the museum is a tall ship - both the museum and the tall ship are free. It was also fun to explore. Definitely, a place to stop by. Rather than the traditional donation box for cash they had a touch screen where you could donate via a credit card, a great idea!

• Edinburgh - Definitely one of the most beautiful cities we have ever visited. It was even better during the Fringe Festival. Urban, diverse, exciting, and crowded all describe the last stop on our vacation. It was a great way to end our month-long trip to Scotland.

  • Edinburgh Castle - https://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/venues/riverside-museum I can't imagine visiting Edinburgh without stopping at the Castle that dominates one end of the Royal Mile. You have to reserve a time slot to visit and buy your ticket in advance. I would suggest you also purchase the audio guide as you will get so much more out of your visit.

  • Fringe Festival - https://www.edfringe.com/ - The main reason we scheduled our trip the way we did was to ensure we were in Edinburgh while the festival was on. So glad we did! The festival creates a level of excitement and fun that is exhilarating (if you don't like crowds this may not be for you). The choices of shows are overwhelming and I do think the organizers could improve the tools available to help you navigate the event. We found an app that displayed all the programs that were free or pay what you can. It was a great way to see some of the less famous acts. Although a few were duds, we enjoyed most of them. I feel like I have checked something important off my list now that I have been in Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival.

  • Greyfriars Kirkyard - https://greyfriarskirk.com/visit/kirkyard/ - We seemed to have visited a lot of cemetery-like places. A kirkyard is a cemetery with large structures to remember the dead. What are the differences between and kirkyard and a necropolis you ask? A kirkyard is an area that surrounds a church (at least according to Google). The fun part of this particular site is that some of the names and ideas for Harry Potter came from this kirkyard. It is reasonably easy to identify which ones as they have been fenced off to protect them from rabid Harry Potter fans. From the kirkyard, you can also see George Heriot's School which apparently was what the Hogwarts school was based on. A fun stop.

  • Elephant House - https://elephanthouse.biz/ Apparently the coffee shop where J.K. Rowling wrote many of the Harry Potter stories. Unfortunately, it is closed temporarily but you can still wander by and take your photo outside.

  • The Royal Mile - https://edinburgh.org/neighbourhoods/the-royal-mile/ - The mile-long main drag in Edinburgh with Edinburgh Castle at one end and Holyrood Castle, the Queen's (now King's) official residence while in Scotland. (Although the Queen spent more time at Balmoral while in Scotland). The street is touristy and you have to work hard to search for the non-repetitive gift stores that all have the same stuff. But between all the gift stores are some great pubs and restaurants. We even found a unique art and craft market. People-watching on this street is a must. Make sure you check out some of the closes - narrow private alleyways often leading to some interesting spots.

  • Scottish Parliament Building - https://www.parliament.scot/ Among some of the oldest and most beautiful historic buildings we have seen anywhere sits the modern-designed Scottish Parliament building. It is near Holyrood Castle. This spectacular-looking building is free to enter and explore the chambers and offices. Amazing design. We were fortunate enough to visit while the World Press Photo Exhibition was on display. This photo exhibit travels the world and happened to be in Edinburgh while we were there. What luck! It is a collection of photos that largely depict humanitarian struggles and protests around the world. The photo of the year was by Amber Bracken, a New York Times photographer. Her image of red dresses over crosses on the side of the road in Kelowna, British Columbia commemorates children who had died at the Kamloops Residential School. Given my interest in residential schools in Canada and my focus on the lack of progress on the 94 Calls to Action from the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (read my articles on my blog site), it was a special experience to see this photograph in Scotland.

  • New Calton Burial Ground - https://www.parliament.scot/ - Ok I am going to have to admit we ended up visiting a lot of burial sites. This was described as a "tomb with a view". If you find yourself at this end of the Royal Mile, definitely go for the views.

  • The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo - https://www.edintattoo.co.uk/ - I am not someone who searches out displays of military prowess and I would say I have an uncomfortable relationship with the idea of the military. (this is probably a subject for another post). Having said that, everything I read about the Tattoo described it as a spectacular event. It was much more than just bagpipes. There are military marching and music bands from all over the world. Edinburgh Castle makes for an incredible backdrop for the light show that is projected throughout the program The fireworks at the end were amazing. I am glad we went to this event at least once.

  • Arthur's Seat - https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/holyrood-park-and-arthurs-seat-p914341 - An amazing hike that is just a few minutes from the Holyrood end of the Royal Mile. The hike is challenging, particularly if you venture right up to the rocky top. It was windy the day we went which made it even more demanding. Once at the top, you can be happy for having finished a grinding workout as well as enjoy the amazing city views.

  • Johnnie Walker Princess Street - https://www.johnniewalker.com/en-gb/visit-us-princes-street/ Teresa and I had decided we were going to buy a bottle of scotch to take home and drink at our annual family cottage event, Fins and Skins. We were looking for one not available in Canada so had not considered Johnnie Walker. We went to the Princess Street store solely because I had read it was a great retail experience. It was. However, once there we found out you could bottle your own Johnnie Walker summer scotch that was only available in that store. In addition, you could get the bottle etched. Wow, this seemed perfect for us. We got Fins and Skins etched on the bottle and took home our personally bottled Johnnie Walker summer blend.

  • Holyrood Distillery - https://holyrooddistillery.co.uk/ We decided we wanted to do one more scotch tasting before we left Scotland. In Edinburgh, there are many Scotch tasting rooms, but there is only one distillery in the city, Holyrood Distillery. We booked a tour and tasting. Technically you are not tasting scotch here as something can only be considered scotch if it has aged a minimum of three years. Because the distillery has only been in operation for two years, you are drinking "early scotch", kind of like Beaujolais nouveau (I think). The tour was great, the building beautiful, and the scotches a little rough. We ended up buying one that was made with Japanese sake rice. It was very unique and something no one had tried before (and may not try again). I would definitely put this on your list versus visiting a tasting room.

Hiking - in addition to finding great hiking on Google I would strongly suggest using the AllTrails app. You can pay and subscribe to the deluxe version, but the free version has all the functions needed. You can save the hikes you find on the app and it also has a great GPS map tracking page that helps ensure you stay on the trail. Over the years we have found ourselves on trails that were not well marked and this feature really helps. There is a "trails near me" function so you can find a hike in an area you have not researched in advance. The trails are graded, easy, moderate and difficult with a description of the trail and reviews from other hikers. Absolutely an app you want for your vacation.

All of our hiking except one in Edinburgh was while we were driving the NC500 so you can find the exact locations along that route.

• An Torr Glencoe - https://www.wildlochaber.com/glencoe/walking/an-torr-and-signal-rock - our first hike in Scotland. Beautiful.

• Old Man of Storr - https://www.isleofskye.com/skye-guide/top-ten-skye-walks/old-man-of-storr - Probably one of the most known hikes on the Isle of Skye, maybe in Scotland and certainly one of the busiest. Parking is limited (especially in an RV) but the hike is worth it. Good hike/workout and has many views on the way up and at the top.

• Point of Sleat - https://www.isleofskye.com/skye-guide/top-ten-skye-walks/the-point-of-sleat#:~:text=This%20is%20a%20great%20walk,of%20Rum%2C%20Canna%20and%20Eigg. - A beautiful rugged 2.5-hour hiking experience. One of our favourites. Very limited parking - maybe 8 cars. The drive to the starting point is on a steep, narrow, and blind curved single-track road that is harrowing. After the difficult drive, we arrived to find no "legal" parking spots. We parked in a no-parking zone hoping we would not cause a problem (we were reasonably sure). When we got back, cars were parked all over so we felt better. A hike not to be missed.

• Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve - https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/corrieshalloch-gorge - easy hiking but beautiful gorge with a suspension bridge and waterfall. Great photo spot.

• Ullapool Hill Path - https://outaboutscotland.com/ullapool-hill-and-the-braes-walk/ - If you stay in or drive through Ullapool this is a must. A little difficult to find the starting point (use AllTrails) but worth the confusion. Spectacular views on the way up and at the top.

• Achmelvich Beach Bay - https://www.northcoast500.com/listing/achmelvich-beach/ - Although not quite as harrowing as the drive to Point of Sleat, this was still a difficult single-track road drive. Short hike but you are rewarded with spectacular views of the ocean and a beautiful white sandy beach (amongst all the rocks).

• Smoo Cave - https://www.secret-scotland.com/place/smoo-cave - A short drive near Durness it is fun to hike into the cave and then up the surrounding cliff. Lovely hike after breakfast when you leave Durness on your way to John O'Groats.

• John O'Groats Lighthouse and Seastacks - https://www.britainexpress.com/scotland/Highlands/Caithness/duncansby-head.htm - If you do the whole hike at once (I recommend you do) it is 13.5 km out and back. Pack lunch (you can get great food at Stacks Bistro) and have a great time. You get the full Scottish experience here. Beautiful ocean views, sheep, rolling pastures and cliffs. The sea stacks are amazing and remind me of Perce rock in Gaspe. Breathtaking.

• Fairy Glen Falls - https://www.livebreathescotland.com/fairy-glen-falls-rosemarkie/ - nice easy hike with a walk along the river.

• Chorney Point - https://www.moraydolphins.co.uk/chanonry-point.html - We were lucky enough to hear about this place from our neighbour at the John O'Groats campsite (another great reason to drive in the NC500 in a campervan). It is incredible. The parking at the point is very limited and RVs are not allowed. We had to park a fair distance away and walk in. You walk along a beach and then through a golf course to get to the point. Once there you will easily see multiple dolphins, which for urban dwellers like us was stunning. A must-see when in the Inverness area.

• Loch Ness - https://www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/loch-ness/ - One of the most famous and well know spots in Scotland, it is very touristy. However, the loch (lake) is beautiful and there are lots of spots to stop for photo-taking on your drive by the loch. We were fortunate to find some good hiking so we enjoyed the visit and avoided most of the tourist traps.